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Professional Guide: Tree Planting and Irrigation

מאמר: מדריך לאיש מקצוע- שתילה והשקיה של עצים

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Below is a detailed professional guide for landscape architects, installation contractors, public and private landscapers, and anyone wishing to expand their horizons, improve, and refine their knowledge and execution capabilities in planting new trees.

These instructions were written to minimize as much as possible the stress on the newly purchased tree during the sensitive transition period from the nursery to its new location. Strictly following each of the steps properly will ensure optimal establishment conditions for the tree, as well as enjoyment and peace of mind from your tree for years to come.

The nursery will provide a warranty for supplied trees only if the planting instructions detailed below are strictly followed!

Optimal establishment of a tree begins even before receiving the trees and planting. The article divides the process into four steps:

  1. Preparing the area for planting.
  2. The planting itself.
  3. Support.
  4. Irrigation.

Delivery and Planting Timing – Very Important!
Coordinate the delivery of the trees as close as possible to the planting time. Plant the tree as soon as possible in its designated spot, preferably on the day of receipt and no later than two days after receiving it. If planting is delayed, notify the nursery and make sure to water the tree at least once a day until actual planting. Effective watering means watering until water penetrates to the bottom of the container or growing bag and drainage flows out from the bottom. On hot days, it is recommended to plant early in the morning while it is still cool, or in the late afternoon/evening hours.

First Step – Preparing the Area for Planting Before Receiving/Purchasing the Tree

Local Soil Quality:

Soil Cleanliness: Ensure the planting area contains clean, natural local soil or horticultural fill soil. You must remove all foreign debris from the area, such as stones, construction residues, pipes, or other substrates. It is important to emphasize—these materials impair water drainage, interfere with normal root development, and may alter the mineral composition of the soil.Soil Types That Are Not Ideal for the Planting Hole: Heavy Soil – Clay: Retains water over time, requiring more time for proper water drainage. Light Soil – Sandy: Drains too quickly, not allowing sufficient water retention for the tree after planting. Quarry Soil “Sub-base / Aggregates” – Crushed quarry soil, sometimes calcareous. Creates a hard surface but does not absorb water. Completely unsuitable for growing trees under any circumstances.Treatment for Unsuitable Soil: Soil Replacement: If the local soil is not clean or is unsuitable (such as sandy soil), perform soil replacement in the planting hole. Replace a minimum soil volume of 2 cubic meters per tree, with the ideal being a replacement of 4-5 cubic meters. Recommended Soil Composition for Backfilling the Hole: The recommended soil for backfilling the hole is hamra or sandy hamra with an aerated structure and reasonable water retention capacity. It is highly recommended to enrich the replaced or local soil with high-quality organic matter such as mature compost or humus (without off-odors), at a rate of 10%–20% of the total volume. Organic matter improves soil fertility, water retention capacity, and provides an optimal environment for root system development. Alternatively, mix the selected soil with high-quality garden soil at a rate of 10% of the planting hole volume (purchased in bags).Digging the Planting Hole: The tree hole should be 1.5-2 times deeper than the depth of the planting bag. Dig and clean the soil of debris, and mix with compost/humus/garden substrate according to the instructions above. Upon completion, return part of the enriched soil to the hole so its final depth will be 5 cm less than the height of the bag with which the tree arrived. This will create a positive slope for the tree, meaning it will be planted on a small mound (over time, the soil settles and the mound height decreases).Tree Surroundings and Hazard Avoidance: When planning the planting location and selecting the tree species, and subsequently when positioning the tree in the planting hole, pay attention to power poles and overhead voltage lines in the vicinity of the planting area and take into account the mature size of the tree and existing branches. It is recommended to consult with our professionals!The Irrigation System: An infrastructure for a fully automatic irrigation system must be established prior to planting.An irrigation system includes:
  • Irrigation Controller: Enables precision in setting irrigation rations and frequencies.
  • Drippers: Ensure suitability in number and flow rate for the needs of the planted tree and the soil type (drainage).
Installing the Drip System: Immediately upon completing planting, lay drip tubing in a double loop (2 turns) around the root ball diameter, or a spiral (a coil shrinking inward from a wide perimeter toward the central root). Keep drippers 20 cm away from the trunk. Determine the flow rate volume of the dripper and multiply by the number of drippers to reach the required amount per tree, according to the required amount specified in the table later in this document.Pay attention! Manual hose watering is imprecise, may harm tree establishment, and violates the mandatory conditions for receiving a nursery warranty on trees.Fertilization and Nutrition After Planting: In addition to applying compost which supplies part of the tree’s nutritional requirements, installing and operating a fertilizer injector is recommended. Feeding via a fertilizer injector is not mandatory, but using one will allow the tree to fulfill its growth potential and make providing nutrition easier for you.Controlled fertilization has clear advantages:
  • Allows the tree to realize its growth potential.
  • Maintains dark green leaf color, high foliage density, and strengthens resistance to pests and diseases. In autumn, deciduous trees will exhibit vibrant colors.
  • Assists in developing a strong root system, ensuring successful establishment and long-term tree durability.
Installing a Fertilizer Injector (Recommended): A fertilization system adapted to the irrigation system. It is recommended to use a water-soluble, balanced liquid fertilizer (complete N:P:K + microelements) containing all necessary nutritional elements for the tree. The accepted starting dosage is in the range of 0.5 to 1 ml of fertilizer per liter of water, where the final dosage and frequency must be customized to the age and size of the tree.

Second Step – Planting

Follow these steps in order:
  1. Bring the tree close to the planting hole.
  2. Identify the root collar: This is the junction where the trunk connects with the roots. The tree arrives from the nursery with this area exposed. Pay attention! This point must remain exposed after planting the tree, meaning without soil mulch of any kind (for example, do not place synthetic grass or wood chips) and without planting flowers/grass in this area.
  3. Using a utility knife or shears, cut the bottom of the growing bag only, taking great care not to damage or break apart the root ball. Maintaining root ball integrity is mandatory. Place the tree with the growing bag (without the bottom) inside the hole so that the root collar is at ground level or slightly above it on a positive slope, align the tree, and inspect it from several angles to verify it stands straight. Pay attention to branch orientation relative to the surrounding environment (structures, pathways, roads, passages, power poles, power lines, etc.).
  4. Cover the growing bag up to half its height with soil, pull the remainder of the bag upward to remove it, continue filling the hole, and tamp down the soil around the trunk. It is very important to verify again that the soil around the tree is slightly elevated at a positive slope outward—so that water drains radially and does not pool at the root collar, helping prevent trunk rot and diseases.
Crucial! The soil around the trunk, within a radius of 1.5 meters, must remain exposed for at least the first two years from the day of planting. Avoid placing synthetic grass/paving etc. within this radius to prevent soil overheating, allow aeration for the root system, enable rainwater penetration, and allow the soil surface to dry out between waterings.

Third Step – Support

Support and tie the tree if necessary – for example, in cases where the root ball size is too small relative to tree height, or if there is dense foliage that could create a “sail” effect during strong winds. In such cases, support the tree with 2-3 stakes.Tie the tree to the stake using a suitable strap (available for purchase at our nursery) that is wide and flexible, to avoid girdling (strangling) the tree bark. This flexibility is important to allow the tree some movement; a tree tied without the ability to move does not develop a strong, anchored root system and over time may become less wind-resistant and even collapse. To maintain tree health, check every two months to ensure girdling has not occurred – that is, that the tying straps are not strangling the tree (which would form a “ring” around the tied area on the trunk).

Fourth Step – Comprehensive Irrigation Guide for Your New Tree

To ensure the successful establishment and healthy growth of your purchased tree, you must strictly follow the irrigation and care guidelines. Proper irrigation is the key to tree establishment. The goal is to keep the tree’s original soil ball moist, but not waterlogged.Below is a detailed irrigation guide for the various growth stages of the tree, from planting to establishment in its permanent environment:
  1. The First Irrigation (After Planting)
    • Irrigation Volume: Apply double the water ration recommended in the irrigation table later in this document.
    • Objective: This prolonged watering is essential to eliminate “air pockets” inside the root zone and compact the soil around the roots.
    • Note: Small depressions may form in the soil after the first watering; this is a natural process.
  2. First 10 Days in Summer / First 3–5 Days in Winter – Weather Dependent
    • Frequency: Water daily.
    • Objective: Saturate the root zone during establishment; a period when the tree is in a sensitive state of acclimating to its growing site.

Irrigation frequency by season and growth stage

Stage and Time
Recommended Frequency – Light/Sandy Soil
Recommended Frequency – Heavy/Clay Soil
Important Highlights
Establishment Stage: First 10 days in summer First 3–5 days in winter (weather dependent)
Daily – Mandatory!
Daily – Mandatory!
Year 1 – Summer
3–4 times a week
2–3 times a week
Begin spacing out waterings
Year 1 – Winter
2–3 times a week
1–2 times a week
Stop or reduce during rainfall
Years 2–5 – Summer
2–3 times a week
1–2 times a week
Increase ration volume as the tree grows
Years 2–5 – Winter
1–2 times a week
Once a week or weather dependent
Deep waterings to saturate the deep root system

Recommended Irrigation Volumes per Application

Golden Rule for Soil Irrigation – do not split the watering ration into multiple waterings. You must ensure long irrigations that reach deep down, saturate the entire root zone, and allow flushing of excess salts. The volume per irrigation unit (ration) remains fixed, determined by tree size. Only the irrigation frequency changes based on the season and stage of establishment.

  • Small trees (1–2 inches caliper): 20–30 liters per ration.
  • Medium trees (2–3 inches caliper): 30–45 liters per ration.
  • Mature trees (3 inches caliper and above): minimum 45–60 liters per ration according to tree size.

In containerized media (soilless substrate), adjust irrigation frequency based on substrate composition and volume (it may be necessary to increase the application frequency to 2 waterings a day).

Irrigation Controller Programming Example:
If you installed 4 drippers of 8 liters/hour around the tree (total 32 liters per hour), set the controller to 1 hour of run time to achieve a ration suitable for a medium tree (about 30-45 liters per ration).
Ensure water pressure in the garden is normal: place a bowl under one of the drippers, run the irrigation system for 5 minutes, and then measure the water volume in the bowl – for an 8 liter/hour dripper, you should get about 650 ml. If the resulting volume is lower than this, consult a qualified professional to resolve the issue (for example, if a pressure booster is required).

Soil Types / Substrates

Light Soil:
Sandy or hamra soil, where water retention is low. Water drains quickly and does not accumulate near the roots. This soil tends to be low in nutrients, so fertilize and add organic matter.

Heavy Soil:
Soil with high water retention. It may be rich in nutrients, but is characterized by a clayey, dense structure, and can be problematic in terms of drainage and root aeration. In heavy soil, calculate and adjust waterings to avoid two extreme ends – a situation where the soil is waterlogged and roots lack oxygen, and the opposite situation where the soil dries out excessively, cracks, and then struggles to absorb irrigation water.

Perlite:
A substrate with excellent aeration capacity; its water retention depends on particle size. Used as an additive to heavy soil or in containerized media to improve drainage and root zone aeration.

Tuff (Volcanic Rock):
A substrate with a porous structure, allowing relatively high water retention and long-term stability. Contributes to aeration and drainage improvement. Recommended for addition to heavy soil to break up density and improve structure.

Please Note! In containerized media in general, and in perlite and tuff in particular, the tree’s “margin of error” for irrigation mishaps is significantly smaller, increasing the risk of tree desiccation and damage. Using a substrate made of a high percentage of perlite or tuff requires more frequent watering, sometimes even twice a day, depending on the type of perlite/tuff (smaller particles hold more water).

Appendix: Key Points for Planting and Growing in Containerized Media (Pots and Planters)

Planting in a container requires special consideration, as the tree relies completely on you for water, nutrition, and drainage supply.

Container Selection and Preparation

  • Drainage is Mandatory: Ensure the bottom of the container has open, functional drainage holes.
  • Aeration Layer: It is recommended to place a 5–10 cm layer of coarse tuff or perlite at the bottom of the pot to ensure drainage of excess water and prevent root rot.
  • Container Size: Ensure container volume allows root development space (consult nursery staff regarding required volume in liters for the tree species).

Planting Substrate

  • Do Not Use Garden Soil: Local soil inside a container tends to compact and lose aeration.
  • Recommended Mix: Use a prepared potting mix (high-quality bagged garden soil) containing peat, coconut coir, compost, and up to 15% perlite/crushed tuff.

Irrigation and Fertilization (Critical!)

  • Higher Frequency: In containerized media, water evaporates and drains faster than in soil. You may need to increase watering to 2 applications a day on hot days.
  • The “Drainage” Rule: With every watering, ensure a minimum of 25%–30% of the irrigation volume exits as runoff from the drainage holes at the bottom of the container. This serves as the indicator that the entire root ball has been wetted and excess salts have been flushed out. When irrigation water is “hard” (electrical conductivity of 0.8 and above), perform periodic high-volume flushings with plain water (at least once a month) to flush all excess salt from the substrate. Do not place a saucer under the pot to collect drainage without allowing it to be emptied after each watering.
  • Continuous Fertilization: Since nutrients flush out with water, you must use a fertilization system (fertilizer injector) or add slow-release fertilizer throughout the year (application frequency according to manufacturer recommendations).
  • Fertilizer Type: It is recommended to use a fertilizer with a complete composition of microelements (such as iron, copper, etc.) and macroelements. An example of a fertilizer formula is NPK 7:3:7 (7 Nitrogen N, 3 Phosphorus P, 7 Potassium K) + 6 (microelements). A dosage of 0.8-1 liter of fertilizer per cubic meter of water will allow you to enjoy enhanced growth on one hand, while the relatively low fertilizer quantity keeps fertilization costs reasonable. Apply an extra boost of iron chelate 3-4 times a year – spring, summer, and autumn. Fertilizers can be purchased at nurseries or agricultural supply stores; in winter, dilute liquid fertilizer by 20% to prevent freezing conditions.

Placement and Maintenance

  • Prevent Overheating: In containers exposed to direct sunlight, pot walls can heat up and damage feeder roots. Using thick-walled containers or light colors is recommended.
  • Anchoring: Trees in containers are more sensitive to wind (the sail effect). Ensure the pot is stable or tied down as needed.
Please Note: Soil mulch of any kind (wood chips, prunings, tuff, pebbles, etc.) traps moisture in the soil, prevents evaporation of excess water, and leads to a high likelihood of fatal root rot. Do not use soil mulch of any kind during the first two years after planting.
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חלק מהחמצן באוויר שאנו נושמים מיוצר על ידי העצים

עלי שלכת

העצים מכינים עצמם לחורף, שבו פעילותם נעצרת. כדי לא להינזק מפגעי הקור מפחיתים העצים את שטח הפנים, ע”י השלת העלים, כצעד הסתגלותי המאפשר להם לשרוד בתנאי החורף המקשים. הקולטנים שבעלים, הרגישים לטמפ’ היורדת, מפסיקים את ייצור הכלורופיל, הכלורופיל הקיים מתפרק והצבענים האחרים שבעלים נחשפים, והעלים הופכים מירוקים לצהובים, כתומים ואפילו אדומים.

בעת שלכת הסתיו, צבעי השלכת – בעיקר האדום – מאפשרים לעלה להישאר מעט יותר על העץ וכך העץ “שואב” את שארית החומרים המזינים מהעלים ולנצלם עד תום. צבעי שלכת ביערות שלא בעונת הסתיו מאפשרת ליערנים לאתר בעיות.

סגולות השקד

השקד הינו עץ יפה והדור בפריחתו. פירותיו חשובים, טעימים, מזינים ובעלי סגולות רפואיות רבות אשר רובם כבר הוכחו במחקרים רבים.הוספת השקדים לתפריט היומי מסייעת לחיזוק ותפקוד הגוף.
  • השקדים מכילים כ-60% שומן, בעיקר חומצות שומן חיוניות המסייעות לשמירה על הלב.
  • לחומצות שומן אלה יתרונות נוספים חשובים לגופנו, יחד עם הסיבים התזונתיים שבשקדים. השילוב המנצח הזה מסייע בירידה במשקל על ידי כך שהוא מייצר תחושת שובע ומונע מצב של אכילת יתר או צריכת מתוקים בעקבות שמירה של רמת הסוכרים בדם.
  • במחקר שנעשה באוניברסיטת פנסילבניה נמצא כי בקבוצה שבתפריט היומי שלה נכללה אכילה של 42 גרם שקדים לא קלויים, חלה ירידה באחוזי השומן והיקף המותניים. בכך ירד הסיכון של אותה קבוצת מחקר, לחלות במחלות המשויכות לסינדרום מטבולי כגון סוכרת, לחץ דם גבוה ומחלות לב.
  • שקד הינו מקור מעולה לסידן החיוני למניעת איבוד מסת עצם.
  • תמיד כדאי לצאת מהבית עם שקית שקדים ולאכול אותם ברגעים שחווים צניחה ברמת האנרגיה. אכילה של חופן שקדים מעוררת את הגוף בזכות אחוזי החלבון וויטמיני B הקיימים בהם.
  • אכילה של 5-6 שקדים לא קלויים שהושרו במים וקליפתם הוסרה מסייעת להקלה על צרבת ובחילה.

המלצות ואפשרויות לשילוב שקדים בתפריט היומי:

  • שקדים טריים – עד כ- 10 ביום ובשילוב עם פרי.
  • ממרח שקדיה –  בכבישה קרה וללא כימיקלים.
  • קמח שקדים – קל לשימוש, עשיר בחלבון, ויטמין E ומגנזיום. דל בפחמימות וסוכר.
  • רצוי להימנע ככל שניתן מקליית השקדים, כיוון שהחימום שלהם גורם לאיבוד מערכם התזונתי

*תודה לגילי חדש – רפואה טבעית

העץ הכי קשיש בעולם

הפרט המוכר הכי עתיק בעולם הוא עץ מזן Pinus longaeva המוכר בשמותיו העממיים Great Basin bristlecone pine או intermountain bristlecone pine או western bristlecone pine, שנמצא ביער Ancient Bristlecone Pine שב’הרים הלבנים’ בקליפורניה.

גילו מתקרב ל-5,100 שנים!

גם העץ השני בגילו המוכר נמצא באותו יער, והוא גם כן תת זן של אותו עץ. הוא בן יותר מ-4,800 שנה. תת זן זה קיבל מהחוקרים שמדדו את גילו את השם “מתושלח”

העץ הכי גבוה בעולם

הפרט הכי גבוה בעולם הוא כפי הנראה עץ מזן
Sequoia sempervirens
שנמצא בפארק הלאומי רדווד בקליפורניה.

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גינקו דו אונתי מהווה מעין ‘מאובן חי’. הוא התקיים כבר בתקופות פרהיסטוריות.
בחפירות ארכיאולוגיות נמצאו חלקי מאובנים שלו מלפני 270 מליוני שנים!

עמידותו הרבה, והיכולת להזריע את עצמו בקלות, סייעו לו להתקיים לאורך הדורות. הוא כל כך עמיד, שפרטים בודדים שלו שרדו אפילו את פצצת האטום בהירושימה בשנת 1945, למרות שהיו במרחק קילומטר אחד או שניים בלבד ממוקד הפיצוץ. לא רק שעצים אלה שרדו, הם אףהחלימו לחלוטין לאחר זמן קצר יחסית.

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