Tree planting and watering instructions

Good tree establishment begins even before planting. This article divides the process into four stages: preparing the soil for planting, the planting itself, support and watering. Ensuring the correct execution of each of these stages will guarantee optimal base conditions for the young tree. Even proper scheduling of the tree’s date of delivery has importance. We recommend reading

The delivery and planting date – very important!

The date of tree delivery should be scheduled as close as possible to the planting date. The tree should be planted as soon as possible in its designated place and no later than 3 days after it arrives. If planting is delayed, update the nursery, and water the tree at least once per day until it is actually planted. Effective watering is giving water until it seeps out the bottom of the container or grow bag. On hot days, it is recommended to plant early in the morning when it is still cool or in the afternoon–evening.

First stage – preparing the soil for planting before the tree arrives/is purchased

The planting area should have local soil free of debris and various parts of subbase, stones, pipes, building waste etc. If the planting area has dirty soil or sandy soil (from which water quickly drains), we recommend replacing the soil in the planting hole (at least 2 cubic meters). Recommended replacement soil: loam, sandy loam or chernozyom. For optimal results, we recommend mixing with garden soil (which is bought in bags).
Pay attention to utility poles and power lines in the vicinity of the planting area, considering the tree’s adult size. We recommend consulting with our professionals on how large the tree is expected to grow.
Prepare an automated watering system in advance.
Prepare 5 to 10 kg of compost in advance next to the planting hole.
Mix well the soil removed from the planting hold with the processed compost in a ratio of about 15% compost to 85% soil.

Second stage – planting

Bring the tree to the planting hole.
Identify the root neck. The root neck is the place where the trunk connects to the roots. The tree comes from the nursery with this area exposed. Careful! This part needs to be visible after the tree is planted.
Dig a wide, shallow planting hole. The hole needs to be 2–3 times wider than the root ball and at the depth of the root ball (the clump of roots).
With a knife or secateurs, cut out the bottom of the grow bag only. Be very careful not to damage or break up the root ball.
Place the tree with the grow bag, without the bottom that has been removed, inside the hole so that the root neck is at ground level. Make the tree level in the hole. Before filling the hole, inspect the tree from several vantage points to ensure that it’s standing straight.
Note in particular the directions of its branches in its new surroundings (buildings, paths, roads, passages, utility poles, power lines etc.).
Cover the grow bag halfway with soil and then pull the rest of the bag upwards. Continue filling the hole and covering the root ball and pack the soil around the trunk.

Third stage – support

The tree should be supported and tied if necessary, for example when the root ball is too small compared to the tree height or if there is dense foliage that may create a “sail” effect in strong winds. In such cases, support the tree with one or two stakes.

Tie the tree to the stake with a suitable, wide and flexible strap that wraps around the trunk so as to enable some degree of movement, avoiding girding the tree (removing the bark). A tree that is tied so that it cannot move will not develop a strong root system and over time will also be less resistant to winds and may even fall. To preserve the tree’s health, check every two months to make sure girding is not occurring.

Fourth stage – watering

Once the planting is completed, lay a drip pipe in a loop that encircles the tree twice at the diameter of the existing root circle that has been planted. Then water for two–three hours (about 50 liters) for the first watering to prevent air pockets in the root system.

After the first watering, depressions may form in the soil. These depressions will have been formed by the collapse of air pockets. The water given this first time will attach the soil to the tree roots. During the first week, water daily (about 30 liters). It is important that the watering wet the entire block of soil the tree was purchased with, all the way to the bottom of the hole. Therefore, it is of utmost importance to use a computerized drip irrigation system and not water by hand with a hose or other means.

From the second week, water on alternate days for the rest of the first year as the tree establishes itself in the ground. In heavy soils, you can even reduce to watering thrice weekly. Also, before each watering, make sure that the soil is moist and not too wet, which would indicate problems with drainage. Therefore, here is a sweeping and important rule: always make sure that the soil drains the water and that there is no standing water around the tree, especially around the root neck.

After the first year when the tree has established itself in the ground, move to watering twice a week and even thrice a week for light soil, increasing the duration of watering by at least 25%. We recommend continuing to water the tree thus for at least the next five years. Afterward, watering can be reduced to one long dose per week.

In cold and rainy seasons, reduce the quantity and duration of watering based on the microclimate of the region and the season. Pay attention to cessations in precipitation during the rainy seasons, when you should give auxiliary watering, especially for semi-deciduous and evergreen trees.

Light soil – sandy soil or loam with a low capacity to retain water, i.e., the water drains quickly, meaning that it does accumulate near the roots. It is very low in nutrients, so it is necessary to fertilize and add organic materials.

Heavy soil – has high water retention, is very rich in nutrients but contains clay and is dense and could be problematic for drainage and ventilation.

More guides:

How to choose a tree for a private garden